Categories > Guides and Tips
12 Climbs Every Scottish Winter Climber Should Try
My mate once asked me why I prefer dangling off frozen cliffs rather than indoors under a cosy blanket with a cup of hot chocolate. I told him, “You haven’t really lived until you’ve tried eating a sandwich so frozen the lettuce snaps in half”.
Kidding aside, I was hooked the first time I completed a proper winter climb, heart pounding as if I had conquered Everest. The beauty of Scotland’s winter is raw, rewarding, and always has something new to experience on each climb.
If you’re new to winter climbing or are looking to try a new crag in the great outdoors, here’s a list of the best winter routes that you should try in Scotland… preferably before your knees give out!
Beginner-Friendly Routes (Grades I–II)
Dorsal Arete
Media Credit: tea_jensen
Location: Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glencoe
Grade: II
Why Go: With a manageable technical grade, it’s ideal for beginners stepping up from walking and looking for a steady, but short climb to build their confidence.
Local Guide Companies: Abacus Mountain Guides, Kirkhope Mountaineering
Dorsal Arete was one of my favourite climbs as a beginner, well, that’s aside from the risk of avalanches. But then again, that’s always a factor in Glencoe. Well, as long as you’ve checked the conditions and you’re on the ridge, you should be fine.
Now, I’m not trying to scare you. The route’s big and exciting, but it’s also forgiving to climbers new to the game and allows you to choose your adventure. You can take easier bypasses or test your skills on the airy crest.
You’ll also get to practice virtually everything, from moving on a rope to using crampons on rock and snow. Best believe Dorsal Arete is one of those climbs that’s the perfect classroom for beginner winter climbing.
Pro Tip:
- If it’s your first time, consider hiring a guide who knows the area like the back of their hand, especially if you’ve never placed gear or moved rope in winter.
- Time your climb after a hard freeze so there’s some fresh snow.
Ledge Route
Media Credit: macintyrekyle
Location: Ben Nevis
Grade: II
Why Go: Hailed the best Grade II winter route in the UK for its stunning views and non-technical but proper mountaineering journey that isn’t intimidatingly hard.
Local Guide Companies: West Coast Mountain Guides, Abacus Mountain Guides
What I love about the Ledge Route is that it’s a relatively proper climb with scenic forestry tracks as you walk in. But once you’re on the Ledge Route proper, that’s when the fun begins. There are steep drops, narrow ridges, and stocky steps that get harder in the exposed icy weather.
It’s only when you reach the crest of the ridge that you’ll see that all of that was worth it. The dramatic views of Glencoe, the Mamores, and nearby Tower Ridge are definitely postcard worthy. But that’s not even the best part.
As your final push, you’ll need to top out onto the Ben Nevis summit plateau, often very tricky because of overhanging cornices and unstable snow. But once you’re at the summit, you’ll know, because there are breathtaking views of Ben Nevis, though that might just be the altitude.
Pro Tip:
- Bring a map, compass, and GPS, as many areas are difficult to navigate in whiteout conditions.
- Pack for the ridge as the conditions on the Ben can be unforgiving.
Jacob’s Ladder
Media Credit: how_about_out
Location: Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms
Grade: I–II
Why Go: Quick and straightforward climb without any complex route-dinging, ideal for new climbers dipping their toes into ropework and practising.
Local Guide Companies: Glenmore Lodge, Cairngorm Adventure Guides
Jacob’s Ladder is the perfect climb if you’re a nervous beginner because it’s short and sweet at around 100m. The route itself is relatively easy, and the gully line is easy to manage.
To me, it’s the perfect playground for newbies or if you’re brushing up before tackling a harder climb. It’s a popular spot, especially with courses and guided groups, so be sure to get there early. Remember: the early bird gets the worm!
That said, I also suggest bringing a short rope as well as a couple of nuts and slings so that you can practice anchoring in the snow or placing protection.
Pro Tip:
- Check the SAIS Northern Cairngorms forecast religiously, and wearing a helmet is mandatory.
- Climbing midday is best as the snow has already consolidated, so there’s less risk of loose rock.
Intermediate Climbs (Grades III–IV)
Fingers Ridge
Media Credit: will_hempstead1
Location: Northern Corries, Cairngorms
Grade: IV, 5
Why Go: Ideal for stepping up your climbing game with a good challenge filled with rocky terrain, short cruxes, narrow corners, and steep climbs.
Local Guide Companies: Tiso Climbing Academy, Glenmore Lodge
If you’re looking to push more technical terrain, Finger’s Ridge should be your next climb. While it’s a Grade IV climb, it leans to Grade V because of its lean conditions. There are plenty of narrow corners, true mixed terrain, and iced-up cracks to be wary of.
For climbers progressing from Grade III, what you really need to look out for is the crux pitch. It’s a steep, narrow corner that’s quite technical, so you’ll need good axe placement and solid footwork to get past this.
Be prepared for the cold, too, as the crux is exposed to crosswinds. Trust me, frozen fingers and fogged-up goggles are the worst when you’re trying to keep your composure.
Pro Tip:
- Bring small cams and a bulldog for when cracks are icy.
- Ensure that you’re well-rested before committing to the climb.
Green Gully
Media Credit: mattstygallguiding
Location: Ben Nevis
Grade: IV, 3
Why Go: It’s a classic winter line with satisfying gully ice and mixed terrain, ideal for learning to properly use tools and build confidence on multi-pitch ice.
Local Guide Companies: West Coast Mountain Guides, Abacus Mountain Guides, Atlas Mountaineering, Hunter Mountaineering
One of the most popular icy climbs in the UK, successfully climbing Green Gully means that you’ve earned the Intermediate Climbers Club badge! But don’t let its popularity fool you: it’s the type of climb that’s got tricks up its sleeve, so you need to be competent with your tools.
When in the right conditions, Green Gully is a total joy to climb. It’s direct, obvious, and quite friendly with ice screws going in like a dream. The catch? You need several days of 0°C with minimal thawing to achieve a proper freeze. Otherwise, the ice will be too thin or dripping.
And when you get to the top? Expect legendary views of Ben Nevis with swirling snow and towering walls. It’s steep, sustained, and demands confidence; A classic Scottish climbing experience, through and through.
Pro Tip:
- Plan for 5 pitches with varied lengths and conditions, as Green Gully is longer than it looks.
- Know your descent options. While Number Four Gully is the most popular, it’s the most avalanche-prone, so have a backup plan.
Aonach Eagach Ridge
Media Credit: mhardy_photo
Location: Glencoe
Grade: II in summer, II+ in winter, and III in tough conditions
Why Go: A full-blown alpine adventure for climbers seeking a mountaineering challenge.
Local Guide Companies: Abacus Mountain Guides, Kirkhope Mountaineering, West Coast Mountain Guides, Climb Glencoe
You may have noticed that while Aonach Eagach Ridge is a regular Grade II in the summer, but a II+ in winter, or even III in tough conditions. This is because the ridge requires technical ropework skills in challenging downclimbs and knife-edge sections.
The ridge is also completely exposed to the wind and snow, so a slip could have major consequences. And once you start, there’s no easy way out as the ridge is narrow and steep on both sides, so you’ll have no choice but to finish the course.
Hence, it’s a climb worth preparing for, so don’t underestimate it. While it’s quite straightforward in the summer, it’s a different story in the winter. When you’re ready, you’ll get rewarded with wild Highland views and full-on crampon-and-axe action.
Pro Tip:
- Study the maps religiously, as the descent can be difficult.
- In winter, have a pre-dawn start to ensure you’ve got enough daylight for the duration of the climb.
Advanced to Expert Climbs (Grade V and up)
Point Five Gully
Media Credit: steveteesdale
Location: Ben Nevis
Grade: V,5
Why Go: Often called the “Ultimate Test Piece”, it’s the benchmark of all other Grade V ice climbs
Local Guide Companies: West Coast Mountain Guides, Abacus Mountain Guides, Hunter Mountaineering, Atlas Mountaineering, Jurat Outdoor
Since it was climbed in 1959, Point Five Gully has been the benchmark of all other Grade V ice climbs, and for good reason. As a rite of passage, this climb requires commitment, finesse, and perseverance to get through the steepness, exposure, and wild conditions.
You’ll start just right of Observatory Gully, which is notoriously narrow and steep, just like the rest of the unrelenting terrain. The ice comes in variable conditions, some are fat while others are cruddy, so gear up smartly with loads of screws, extra anchors, and ropes.
A natural funnel, it’s freezing in the gully. That combined with tight spaces and awkward tool placements with rest stops that are few and far between, is one of the reasons it earned its Grade V,5 reputation.
Pro Tip:
- Manage your pacing, breathing, and remember to stay calm to ensure that fatigue doesn’t get the best of you.
- Practice placing screws and keep your tools racked smartly for quick access.
The Pumpkin
Media Credit: will_hempstead1
Location: Creag Meagaidh
Grade: V,4
Why Go: A long and rewarding climb that’ll test your technical skills, decisions, and confidence.
Local Guide Companies: Abacus Mountain Guides, Hunter Mountaineering, West Coast Mountain Guides, and Tarmachan Mountaineering
As cute as it sounds, The Pumpkin is a force to be reckoned with. With rugged terrain, towering walls, frozen lochans, and ice-glazed cliffs, it’s a full-fledged adventure that demands commitment, effort, and solid ice skills.
I’m not kidding. There are no ski lifts to gondolas to help you out. Creag Meagaidh is more remote and sustained than the Ben, so you can’t just pop back to the car if you forgot something.
In whiteout conditions, the plateau of Creag Meagaidh is also notorious for leaving even the most experienced climbers guessing which way is up or down. If you’re not confident in your navigation skills or using a compass, map, or GPS, then this isn’t the climb for you.
If you feel like I’m scaring you off, I’m not. It’s important to highlight that climbing The Pumpkin is all about good decision-making, confident movement, and being a wizard with your tools and ropes, as this isn’t the time to be learning on the go.
Pro Tip:
- Start really early, as it’s a long climb and an even longer descent in winter conditions.
- If the ice isn’t formed properly or if the forecast doesn’t appear good, turn back as soon as possible. There’s always next season.
The Godfather
Media Credit: mvanhaeren
Location: Coire nan Fhamhair, Beinn Bhan, Applecross
Grade: VIII, 8
Why Go: One of Scotland’s wildest winter climbs with big mountain feels, with technical mixed climbing
Local Guide Companies: West Coast Mountain Guides, Hunter Mountaineering, Abacus Mountain Guides, Scottish Rock & Water
As ominous as it sounds, The Godfather is one of Scotland’s wildest winter climbs tucked away in a remote Highland fortress full of wind-blasted moorland, jagged cliffs, and multiple cruxes.
With a climb this intricate, it’s not for the faint of heart. You’ll need to be confident in your tools, footwork, and rope systems. And I mean it. If you climb it clean, you’ll feel like an ice fairy. If not? Well, you’ll probably feel like you’ve been wrestling with a very cold polar bear.
Kidding aside, climbing in the middle of nowhere is no joke. The harsh exposure can rattle your nerves, mess with your psychology and physical well-being, but for many, it also gives you such an adrenaline rush that it could last days.
Trust me. While you may come down tired, frostbitten, with snot frozen to your face, The Godfather leaves its mark. You’ll be plotting your return before you even know it.
Pro Tip:
- Pack as if you’re not coming back until tomorrow, as you’re miles from help, so ensure that you’ve got everything that you may need.
- Manage your body heat and use layers wisely, as you’ll be sweating on the way in but freezing every time you stop.
